Zeylanica

Photograph © by Nilu Rajapakse

The highest Railway Station in Sri Lanka 1893m above sea level. A very cool, misty and rather lovely spot.

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By Indi Sellahewa

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The Veheragalla Temple

First of all let me enlighten you with some details that abounds the vicinity and the surroundings that behold the ancient Temple of Mirissa. Mirissa is a fishing village where life is simple and no one seems to realize or be concerned with the goings on outside it. The beach that borders the village is one of the most beautiful and is famous among mainly European tourists for the surf. Tourists patronize this area year around and although not as busy as Hikkaduwa (the famous beach town) once used to be, the little lanes leading to the beach are cluttered with batik shops selling colourful sarongs and scarves, antique shops, and little gift shops selling trinkets. Yet this village is definitely a lazy holiday hideout where time stays still until the rumblings in your tummy reminds you of it. You can easily spend long hours on the golden beach or playing and swimming in the warm blue sea. You will also be enthralled by the lush greenery and the mast of coconut trees, the tropical fruit trees, and the sound of the bluest ocean you will see. There are so many affordable accommodation ranging from star class hotels to family run guest houses in this area where tourists spend comfortable holidays.

The Temple Doorway

Situated among this tropical hideout is the temple with its Dutch period Monastery House adorned with trellises. The wide verandah and the large carved pillars holding the tiled roof of the open verandah gives you a relaxed and wonderful feeling. As you enter the verandah, the coolness of the place away from the tropical heat, the sea breezes, and the greenery that surrounds engulfs you. The cement floors that have been polished over the years by bare feet that have touched it tell its own story.

Veheragalla Wall Paintings

The furniture, well, as you might have already guessed, are rustic, unpolished for years, and are richly carved antiques. The woodwork on the doors, windows and their frames have obviously been hand crafted by expert craftsmen in the village dating probably more than a hundred and fifty years ago, and will spellbind and mesmerize anyone who appreciates art and history at its best. The feeling is that you are already entering an ancient era where time stands still.

The Chief Thera of the Temple affectionately referred to by everyone as ‘Podi Hamuduruwo’ (meaning small priest while the temple was run by the then Chief Thera) will warmly welcome you with a smile by inviting you to sit and talk for a few minutes and then the Ven. Thera will rush off into the room where all alms are stored, and then the kitchen, and will emerge carrying a large tray full of steaming cups of tea and the most delicious kalu dodol (a fudge made of coconut milk and palm treacle), bananas, apples and even biscuits.

Veheragalla Podi Hamuduruwo

Then the Podi Hamuduruwo will invite you to try everything on the tray, needless to say, one doesn’t need to be encouraged too much to try the wonderful treats on a warm, breezy afternoon. When you’re done with the tea, the Thera will escort you to the ancient Buddhist shrine. You will have to be in quite good shape for this as there are quite a few steps to climb up. The Podi Hamuduruwo does this several times a day. Now this building is nearly 200 years old and has been built in the late nineteenth century. This is the place where the Podi Hamuduruwo is brimming with pride and respect as he talks of its history.

The feeling is that you are already entering an ancient era where time stands still, and are being enveloped by the happenings of that ancient time, where noble kings and queens and all royalty in their colourful and plush attire have been painted so skillfully on the ceiling as well as the walls surrounding the inner shrine. As Buddhists will reminiscence most of the stories they have learnt and heard of the Lord Buddha. Before he attained nirvana the ultimate enlightenment, Prince Siddhartha had been born to rich and noble families and also poor and suffering families in his many births. In his final rebirth, he was born as the son of a most respected and noble Emperor named King Suddhodana. Even though he was the sole heir to the throne and the vast fortune, Siddhartha Gauthama became very unhappy and depressed by the four precepts that he saw when he was a young prince.

Veheragalla Wall Paintings

The sight of a feeble old man made him think about the futility of the life he was leading surrounded by beautiful women trying to please him; and all the comforts only a prince had, and then the horrific sight of a sick man full of sores on the verge of death, and then a dead body being taken away to be buried while the family were weeping, and finally the vision of a calm, yellow robed figure who was walking so serenely collecting alms. Then, Siddhartha’s decision to abandon all luxuries and find the ultimate Nirvana. Here, these stories are depicted with the master strokes of a paintbrush.

'Buddha' The Enlightened

The most amazing and incredible factor is that these paintings are nearly 200 years old. But when you behold them they seem as if they were painted not so long ago. These paintings have been recognized as valuable archaeological graphics by the department of archaeology in Sri Lanka and have been preserved by them. The temple is also a national heritage site. Visitors are not allowed to touch the paintings although they can look at the paintings at very close proximity. The ancient floor is built of stone. Although the floor has been renovated over the years, the original stone floor which in one place is clearly visible through a hole in the ground is left untouched. Podi Hamuduruwo will guide you all the way relating every little detail he knows about the ancient temple. People flock when twilight falls to the ancient shrine to offer flowers to the 15 foot reclining Buddha statue which was built 200 years ago.

Temple inner varendah

Outside, the buildings surrounding the temple has been renovated and added with a few new buildings and stone steps to match the old ones. Visitors will see the new technical school building which has been completed and donated by the Belgian government and also the pre-school which has also been donated by the Belgians after the tsunami washed away the old one further up the main road. There are still ten to fifteen makeshift houses made of wood to house the tsunami victims and some families (mainly fisher folk) still occupy these. These are in the temple grounds and the technical college is also the brainchild of the Podi Hamuduruwo to educate the young men and women around the area to professionalize them so that they will be able to get into the skilled work force.

Whether you are a Sri Lankan, or if you are just visiting Sri Lanka, don’t forget to visit the Veheragalla Temple in Mirissa. Situated only half an hour away from the Historic City of Galle. It is a three hour drive from Colombo. You can stay at the beautiful Palace Mirissa resort hotel which will also make you feel that you are living in ancient times but with ultra modern facilities. The Palace is situated on a small hill bordering the sea. The views are magnificent. The gardens are full of green shady trees and benches to sit and relax just watching the sea. It is also ideal for morning walks breathing the clean fresh sea air. The scent of Araliya (Frangipanni) is spread throughout the garden. Swimmers can enjoy a dip in the pool while sipping tropical fruit juices and the well equipped and modern restaurant offers delicious Continental, Chinese and Sri Lankan cuisine. Or, you can just try the locally caught fish dished up in many palatable ways. This place is also ideal for surfing, boating, jet skiing and fishing.

Veheragalla Temple Mirissa
Tel: 94 41 2253077
Mob: 94 71 6077467

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